How the Valley of Rocks was formed even confuses the experts! Did a gigantic ice sheet 450,000 years ago deposit a massive amount of rock and rubble that dammed the East Lyn River and caused it to overflow through to Lee Bay? Or perhaps it was once one river system flowing out of Lee Bay until cliff erosion at Lynmouth allowed the waters of the East & West Lyn rivers to flow out to sea there leaving the valley of Rock high & dry?
Rugged Jack
Human settlements from the iron age have been discovered in the valley. In Blakemore's Lorna Doone it was the home of Mother Meldrum. Blakemore also refers to goats in the Valley and today a herd of feral goats are to be found. The present herd have been in the Valley since the late 70's much for the benefit of tourists. They have not always enjoyed such tolerance and previous herds have either exterminated by farmers or not hardy enough to stand the rigors of winter. Even today not all those who live in Lynton welcome the sight of the goats, particularly when they invade gardens an do some untimely pruning.
Formed in the Ice Age, the Valley of Rocks is just a ten minute walk
from our front door. Spectacular rock formations, wonderful views,
and our resident herd of wild goats! Try one of our recommended walks
to get there. After dinner on a clear evening just sit and watch the
sunset . . .
Looking toward the Valley of the Rocks from the West
Westwards from Lynton and reached via Lee Road is the ruggedly appealing Valley of Rocks and stunning coastal scenery of hog's back cliffs all the way to Woody Bay, Heddon's Mouth and beyond. The Valley can also be reached from Lynmouth along the superb North Walk, a mile-long path cut in 1817 by a Mr Sanford. From it can be seen the Welsh coast and Severn Sea, and then the delightful Valley of Rocks itself with Castle Rock, Ragged Jack and the Devil's Cheesewring.
Valley of the Rocks Panorama from near Mother Meldrums Cave - click image to enlarge
The valley is unique in England in running parallel with the sea, not inland from it, due to the rivers cutting deeply during the last Ice Age. Now totally dry, its extraordinary landscape features are home to a herd of wild goats.
The famous 'Mother Meldrum's Kitchen' is found here too. Mother Meldrum was the old soothsayer and wise woman of R.D.Blackmore's Lorna Doom. Her 'Kitchen' is situated in the
Cheesewring area and is signposted. Amongst rock clitter just left of the signed Cheesewring Path is an ancient stone circle once believed to have Druid connections. Still vaguely visible, unfortunately it has been vandalised and needs restoring.
Continuing westward along the coast path from the valley, within the Lee Abbey Estate, the Duty Point tower stands on the cliff edge. Lovers of great English landscape paintings will be interested to know this is 'The Lonely Tower' of Samuel Palmer's wonderful paintings. He visited the area around 1835. Lee Abbey is a farmed estate run by a Christian community, and has holiday accommodation.
The road west from the Valley of Rocks takes you to Woody Bay via the estate Toll Road. Woody Bay, with its steep-hanging oak woods rising to over 900 feet (275 metres), has a hotel open to non-residents and there is an excellent 'cream tea' cottage just by the Lee Abbey Toll-Gate. Indeed the breathtaking coast path walk from here to Hunter's Inn brings you to further
Valley of the Rocks
Valley of The Rocks is a
local beauty spot with extensive coastal walks. The valley with its unusual
turrets of rock is home to a herd of native British goats. The valley,
legend says, was the location of the devil's castle and while he was
away his wives took part in a naked drunken orgy with a neighbour. On
finding out what had happened on his return he turned the women into
the turrets of rock and destroyed the castle.
This is a natural gorge between two ridges of hills. Here sandstone and shale fought unsuccessfully with the wind, and the result is such aptly named rocks as "Devil's Cheeswring" and "Ragged Jack". The rocks are playthings for wild mountain goats.
Valley of the Rocks, Lynton
Valley of the Rocks, Lynton
Valley of the Rocks, Lynton with its wild goats and the Devil's Cheesewring
The Valley
of The Rocks is a g geological rarity in that it is a dry valley running parallel to the coast rather than to the sea. It was
formed by polar ice diverting the course of rivers that once flowed here.
Valley of the Rocks Goats
Once renowned for its archaeological features, of which little remain, the valley is famed for its spectacular scenery. It is an unusual landform in that it is a river valley without a river and running parallel with the coast rather than towards it! There are various theories for its formation although it is generally accepted that it was part of the valley of one or both of the Lyn rivers which became cut-off by coastal erosion further up the valley at Lynmouth. This occurred during the Ice Age and frost weathering has caused the formation of tors and screes which now fill the valley.
Exmoor National Park Authority owns the picnic area. The open land within the valley belongs to Lynton Town Council and provides open access on foot. Access on bicycle or horseback is limited to the road running through the valley.
Wandering from paths can be dangerous, disturbs wildlife and causes erosion which is both unsightly and damaging to vegetation and because of this permission for climbing should be sought from Lynton Town Council at the Town Hall, Lee Road. Lynton. refreshments and another well situated National Trust Shop which prides itself on its ice-creams, so it's a great area for treats!
Woody Bay to Heddon's Mouth via the lower coast path for the waterfall cascade and seabirds is one of the best coastal walks on Exmoor: there are razorbills, guillemots and fulmars, and photographic opportunities galore.
Hunter's Inn can also be reached by a road which then becomes a well maintained track to Heddon's Mouth along the Heddon River Valley, reputedly the warmest valley in England. There is a newly restored lime kiln here by the sea, along with awe-inspiring scenery, soaring buzzards and purple heather-clad slopes come August time.
West of Heddon's Mouth (655497) the coast path leads to Combe Martin, settled in its attractive seaside surroundings close to the Hangman Hills. This pretty village with its famous long main street to the sea and its history of horticulture, including the nurturing of delicious strawberries, is the last point of the Exmoor National Park boundary.
The Valley of the Rocks Lynton - Little Switzerland
Wild Cheviot goats from Northumberland were introduced to the valley in 1976. They replaced the feral goats which had roamed the valley on and off for centuries.
Mother Meldrum's Kitchen in the Valley of Rocks
The Valley is located one mile (2km) to the west of Lynton (you can walk it along the North Walk) or drive to the picnic area or car park, to find the natural gorge between two ridges of hills. It lies in the Northern backbone of Exmoor; the Valley floor is about 300ft above sea level, its rocky pinnacles as much again. Here sandstone and shale fought unsuccessfully with the wind, and the result is such aptly named rocks as "Devil's Cheeswring" and "Ragged Jack". How the Valley of Rocks was formed even confuses the experts! Did a gigantic ice sheet deposit a massive amount of rock and rubble 450,000 years ago that dammed the East Lyn River and caused it to overflow through to Lee Bay? Or perhaps there was once a river system flowing out at Lee Bay until cliff erosion at Lynmouth allowed the waters of the East & West Lyn rivers to flow out to sea there leaving the Valley of Rocks high & dry? (Valley of Rocks, Keene & Pearce 1993)
The Valley of the Rocks looking east
The Valley of the Rocks looking east
The Valley of the Rocks looking east
Human settlements from the Bronze Age have been discovered in and around the valley. Remains of stone circles could easily be identified in the bottom of the Valley until the
19th century when many got removed. A lithograph depicting a stone circle can be seen in the Lynton Museum.
An Iron Age settlement has been found on Hollerday Hill. The Romans arrived in 51 AD and followed by the Saxons some six hundred years later. The Vikings may have had a presence in the Valley as some old OS maps refer to the Valley as "The Danes".
In Blakemore's Lorna Doone it was the home of Mother Meldrum. Blakemore also refers to goats in the Valley and today a herd of feral goats are to be found. The present herd have been in the Valley since the late 70s and are a popular sight for tourists. They have not always enjoyed such tolerance and previous herds have either been exterminated by farmers or were not hardy enough to stand the rigours of winter.
The Valley of Rocks also attracted the 18th century poets, Southey, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Wordsworth and the walk between Lynton and Porlock became a particular favourite of the
latter two. Perhaps the surreal atmosphere of the Valley together with opium induced 'trips' inspired such poems as Kubla Khan and the Rime of the Ancient Mariner.
The Devil's Cheesewring, Valley of the Rocks, Lynton
The Valley of Rocks is a major natural beauty attraction in North Devon and still captures those surreal experiences that caught the imagination of the literary geniuses of the previous centuries. Visitors arrive on foot, car or by the busload to enjoy the landscape.
The rocks are playthings for wild mountain goats and for climbers; frequently abseilers can be spotted descending from Castle Rock (can you see the white lady there?) or the Devil's Cheeswring.
The local cricket club have inherited one of the most beautiful cricket grounds in England and attract many touring sides; just to be able to enjoy playing England's finest game in such imposing surroundings. English Nature has designated this area as a Site of Special Scientific Interests (SSSI). This has arisen as human impact on the area has been minimal.
The slopes are too steep for mechanised farming and historically only rough grazing was carried out. This did keep the landscape largely free of trees and gorse, bracken and heather dominate the vegetation. To maintain this status it is necessary to keep the flora and fauna at the status quo and the herd of feral goats performs part of this management regime.
Valley of the Rocks
image supplied by kind permission of Somerset Tourism, Somerset County Council
This rocky valley to the west of Lynton is arguably the most spectacular scenic location on Exmoor. There are many legends surrounding the rock formations, the remains of prehistoric settlement and the herd of wild goats. It is reached by an easy walk from Lynton, along Lee Road or North Walk, part of the Coast Path. Public footpaths around the valley provide spectacular views, particularly from South Cliff and Hollerday Hill. There are toilets and refreshments in season.
Picnic Area at The Valley of the Rocks Lynton
image supplied by kind permission of Somerset Tourism, Somerset County Council
See Valley of Rocks Goats
OS Grid Reference: SS7049
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